Monday, 27 June 2016



http://youarethetreasureyouseek.com is a phishing site.


Do not download documents or provide passwords on this website (Incident ID: 29798524)
 



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Sunday, 5 June 2016

DIY Fabric Guide - Fabric Shop



A DIY Fabric Guide - Fabric Shop


A DIY guide for people who love to sew but don't know anything about different fabrics. The more you know about fabric, the easier it will be to sew! 

There is a lot of information to digest here so don't try to remember it all next time you go fabric shopping. Just pay attention to what kinds of fabric you are buying and how they behave while you sew, wear, and wash them. Looking at the labels in your store bought clothing can also help you learn more about different fabrics.
Contact The Little Cotton Shack for your fabric needs
Fabric Shop

Choosing the right fabrics for your projects 

You should pay attention to fabric WEIGHT.
  • Thin fabrics will do better for tops and dresses. 
  • Heavy fabrics will do better for jackets, skirts, and pants. 
You can always break these rules, but if you want to make something that will last a longer, try to follow them! Thin lightweight fabrics can be used just fine for jackets and skirts, but for pants you will always be better off with the heavy fabrics.
On occasion fabrics will be labeled by the weight:
  • Top-weight fabrics: shirts and dresses. Also called shirtings.
  • Bottom-weight fabrics: jackets, skirts, and pants.
  • Very light: Under one ounce per yard.
  • Light: 2-3 oz. per yard.
  • Medium: 5-7 oz. per yard.
  • Heavy: more than 7 oz. per yard.
Medium and heavy are best for pants. Light and very light are best for shirts. 
Fabric won't always be labeled with the weight, so if you can feel the fabric and judge for yourself.
*If you are buying fabric online if the weight not apparent, send a query to them
*If you are going to make patches, make sure to use heavy-weight fabric!

Types of Fibers and Fabrics

Many fabrics are a mixture of two or more different fibers. (for example, 50% cotton 50% polyester) Pay attention to the fiber content when you shop for fabrics, because it will affect how your clothes feel and behave.

The following list is separated into 3 categories: natural fibersmanufactured fibers, and protein fibers
  • Protein fibers are those like silk and wool that are obtained from an animal and are not vegan friendly. 
  • Manufactured fibers are usually made of chemicals. They will typically dry faster than natural fibers and can develop stubborn pilling.
  • Cotton Fabric Very cool, absorbent, and comfortable. Takes a long time to dry compared to other fibers. Will shrink when you wash it. Medium strength. Ages well. Used in many things, for example t-shirts, jeans, underwear, and upholstery. Combed cotton is softer and better quality than regular cotton.
  • Flax (linen) Cool and absorbent, like cotton. Wrinkles badly, need a very hot iron to get rid of wrinkles. Shrinks in water, dry cleaning is recommended. Usually used in summer clothing and home decor.
  • Ramie Similar to cotton and linen, but fairly expensive.
  • Polyester Does not wrinkle. Does not absorb water well. Dries quickly, doesn't shrink in water. Not very comfortable when a tight fitting garment is 100% polyester. One of the cheapest fibers. Very strong. Also called Terylene.
  • Rayon Similar to cotton: cool, absorbent, and comfortable. Wrinkles easily and has only fair strength. Also called viscose.
  • Nylon Strongest major fiber. Very stretchy. Not very absorbent, therefore not very comfortable.
  • Acetate Very cheap, not very strong. Dry-clean only. Feels silky and comfortable. Usually used in linings.
  • Spandex Very stretchy, will recover instantly to same size. Best used in small percentages to add comfort to a non-stretchy fabric. Also called lycra.
  • Acrylic Doesn't wrinkle easily, good strength. Used as a cheaper, more washable substitute for wool and also in fake furs.
  • PVC/Polyurethane Stretchy and waterproof. Usually one side of fabric will be PVC/polyurethane, the other side (backing) will be another fiber like polyester. Doesn't breathe and is not very comfortable if used for an entire garment.
  • Silk Comes from a silkworm. Comfortable, absorbent, wrinkles easily (especially when wet). Sometimes dry-clean only. Very thin.
  • Wool Comes from a sheared sheep. Strong, warm, dry, doesn't wrinkle easily. Can be coarse and itchy, but high quality wool is soft. Dry-cleaning works best.
  • Mohair Comes from an angora goat. Softer and shinier than wool. Expensive.
  • Leather Comes from dead animals. Strong and absorbent.


Best fabrics/fibers to use in DIY clothing:

  • Cotton- comfortable, strong, easy to wash.
  • Polyester Blends- cheaper, strong, doesn't wrinkle easily. But stay away from 100% polyester if the garment is tight fitting or covers most of the body, because it might get hot and uncomfortable.
  • Anything with spandex- will add stretch to clothing so that you don't have to use elaborate construction. Just 1% will add stretch to any fabric.

Fabrics/fibers to stay away from:

  • Acetate- not strong and dry-clean only.
  • Leather- very difficult to sew on a regular sewing machine.

Fabric Constructions 

Three main types of fabric constructions:

  1. Knit- yarns are interlooped in various ways. Usually stretches.
  2. Woven- yarns are weaved into a pattern. Stretches only if made from a stretchy fiber, or if cut on the bias.
  3. Nonwoven- fabrics not produced by conventional methods of knitting or weaving.
For example: cotton band t-shirts are knits. Jeans are wovens. Top-weight fabrics can be knit or woven, while bottom-weight fabrics are usually woven.

Common terms used for fabric construction:

Orange means knit, pink means woven, red means nonwoven.

Many of these terms signify a certain type of construction as well as a certain fabric finish or pattern. I listed most of the basic types of fabrics you can find at a fabric store.


  • Double Knit- two faced, which means the back and front look exactly the same. stretches a lot, good for t-shirts.
  • Interlock- similar to double knit. will fray at the edges.
  • Jersey- stretchy with a smooth face. will curl at the edges when stretched. many uses.
  • Rib Knit- very stretchy, has vertical parallel ridges running. used for tank tops, neck trim of t-shirts, and sweatshirt cuffs.
  • Tricot- thin, made with fine yarns. good for lingerie and underwear.


Some of these woven fabrics can also be made as knits:

  • Broadcloth- tightly woven. used for skirts, blouses, dresses, and summer clothing.
  • Brocade- elaborate designs woven in. wide range of prices, usually used for formal clothing.
  • Canvas- heavyweight material. not good for clothes but you can use it to make patches.
  • Chiffon- sheer, fine, and limp, and has a slightly bumpy look. used for blouses, evening dresses and scarves.
  • Chino- lustrous twill weave. used for army uniforms and many other garments.
  • Corduroy- has pile (like velvet). make sure to cut all pattern pieces in the same direction, as light will reflect differently depending on which way the pile goes. many uses (excluding shirts).
  • Crepe- lightweight with a crinkled or puckered surface. used for dresses and formalwear.
  • Denim- same as twill. weave has diagonal, parallel ridges. many uses.
  • Flannel- medium-weight with a soft, fuzzy surface. many uses, for example shirts and pajamas.
  • Fleece- can be knit or woven. made from wool. can be cheap or expensive, quality usually depends on price. good for jackets and warm clothing.
  • Gingham- printed or dyed with a striped or checked pattern. variety of weights and uses.
  • Muslin- inexpensive medium weight fabric, used for fitting garments before real fabric is used. (a "mock-up")
  • Poplin- lustrous with a corded surface. many uses.
  • Satin- has a glossy surface, made in many different weights and varieties. used in dresses, linings, formalwear, jackets, and more.
  • Sateen- satin that is made out of cotton.
  • Seersucker- medium to heavy weight with crinkles in the weave. many uses.
  • Taffeta- smooth, shiny, and stiff. used for formalwear.
  • Terry- has a looped pile. very absorbent, has many uses.
  • Tulle- thin, stiff, and fine. used for formalwear.
  • Tweed- medium to heavy weight twill fabric. many uses, mostly suits and coats. lighter weights used for dresses.
  • Twill- has diagonal parallel ridges. if you don't know what this means, look at any pair of jeans. usually a bottom-weight fabric.
  • Velour- woven (but sometimes knitted) fabric with uneven pile, which creates light and shaded areas. woven used for formalwear, knit velour has many uses.
  • Velvet- woven with a thick pile. for best color/shade results, cut with pile running up. cheaper velvet deteriorates after a few wearings. used mostly for formalwear.
  • Velveteen- like velvet, but with shorter pile.
  • Felt- many fibers fused together. poor quality unless it is wool felt.
  • Interfacing- stiff fabric used to support and add weight to garments. can be woven or knit.
  • Lace- usually made by machine. can be used for decoration on almost any garment. also can be woven or knit.

Contact The Little Cotton Shack for your fabric needs


Source:
  • Derangeddesigns.

Saturday, 2 January 2016

WHAT TO DO WITH PHOTOS DAMAGED IN FLOOD


Photo Restoration Houston Texas  - ABC13 News - "Truly Amazing Results"


If your precious family photographs were damaged in floods, there are affordable options to get them back to their original condition.

There are various recommendations for cleaning and restoring damaged photos and albums however there are lost of different photo types so take care.

FujiFilm do have some tips:

The cleaning method varies, depending on the type of photo print.


Prints using Silver halides in photographic film and photographic paper, including graphic art film and paper,

Prints created using heat, such as those from self-service kiosks and marked with “FUJIFILM Quality Thermal Photo Paper” on the back.

Prints using dye that penetrates into the paper surface and preserve the surface characteristics of the paper.

Prints using tiny particles of colorant that rest on the surface of the paper.



Friday, 28 August 2015

The Top 13 Reasons Why You Should Already Be Scanning Your Photo Collection


The Top 13 Reasons Why You Should Already Be Scanning Your Photo Collection


by Curtis Bisel via scanyourentirelife.com


"I’ll get to it someday.”
“Maybe when I get around to buying a decent scanner.”
“It’s just too much work.”
“I’ll make one of my kids do it.  They know that ‘tech’ stuff – I don’t.”


Those are just a few reasons why your irreplaceable film and paper photograph collections are probably in jeopardy of  being no more – just a distant memory. You see, there are forces greater than your lack of will power hurting your chances of having an everlasting collection to pass on to future generations.

And unfortunately, because of the way we often store our prints, negatives and slides, it’s kind of that out of sight, out of mind situation. Your photos are screaming for your help – you just can’t hear them because they are tucked away deep deep in your closet.

So for those who need a little push in the right direction, here are thirteen reasons why you should already be scanning your photo collection, and therefore should not be reading this article right now. (Okay well then finish reading this and then go get to scanning)

The first six demonstrate why time is not on your side – why waiting is only making matters worse. And the last seven show the often surprising benefits that come with having your collection in digital form.


Identification of the Unknown



This is one of those situations you will probably never think about until you actually start the digitizing process. A few days in you are going to be scanning photos and saving them with unique filenames and typing in the names of everyone in the photos when you come across images of people and places you aren’t familiar with. Either you have forgotten the information or maybe the photo was taken before you were even born and you have never met them before.

We have security in believing our “all-knowing” family and friends will always be here for anything we need – all of those questions we ask them – but there may come a time when we will wish we had taken the time to go through those old boxes of photos and shared some stories together.

Never-ending Deterioration


For those of you who weren’t around for the 1970’s, or just can’t remember too much of it for a number of questionable reasons, let me inform you that the way it now looks in your old photographs, isn’t how the decade actually looked back then. Your photos have color-shifted baby! And nothing you or the best Tupperware could have done to stop it. Well unless you upgraded to some museum-grade archival storage, and even then the clock is only going to spin a bit slower.

Fire and Water Damage


We never think it’s going to happen to us until – well – it happens to us. (Knock on wood – my immediate families have been very lucky so far) We build our homes with wood and run pipes in and around them so it only seems reasonable to expect a few of them them here and there might catch on fire or get really wet. Your insurance might replace a lot of possessions  but it’s not going to bring back those albums full of paper prints.

Since it’s not practical or even smart to keep our photographs conveniently stored by an exit for a quick grab during a fire, it’s up to us to have a “backup plan” already in place just in case the worst should ever happen.

Much Needed Backups


Two is definitely better than one when it comes to how many copies you have of your one-of-a-kind photographs. And yes, more is even better!

I know – it’s your collection and maybe you don’t want those ungrateful cousins of yours to have a copy of that amazing shot of your Uncle Phil after falling on that icy sidewalk your father took back in 1964. But that’s no reason the only copy of it should be a paper print you stowed away in a shoebox under the bed in your guest room.

Photos get damaged, scratched, moldy, torn, bent, and when we aren’t careful – misplaced.

Messy Hands and Accidental Spills


When I was a kid, on weekends we would watch movies on television eating air-popped popcorn with real butter melted all over it with a big ol’ reused plastic sporting arena souvenir cup filled with concord grape juice. (I’m not sure how that combination came to be, but they really do go well together) But indulge in either one of these while handling your photos or even being near them and you’re just asking for irreversible damage.

I don’t even like to leave my loose photos out when I am not using them. Even if they are in some kind of envelope or folder, it’s just too easy spill something on them.

Photo Scanning Services Are Now Affordable


When considering how serious the six reasons above are, it’s comforting to know there really are photo scanning services for those who don’t want to do the scanning themselves. There are services that cater to every budget – dipping all the way down to as cheap as 5¢ a scan. You place your prints, negatives or slides in a box and mail them off. Before you know it, your photos are returned with a DVD or hard drive full of digital images.  You still have a lot of organizing and possible corrections to do with the images, but a lot of the hard work has now been done for you.

It’s a Blast from the Past!


You are going to find pictures of people and events in those boxes you have totally forgotten about. It’s so much fun discovering photos you may not have seen for decades!

Some of my favorites have been of Christmas mornings where my brother and I have just opened toys we played with for years and years. To see pictures of them again when they were brand new and in their original packaging, with our excited little faces, is so worth whatever agony my parents put us through posing for those shots.

Distribute Copies to Family and Friends


Do you have family begging you for a box of original prints or negatives you would rather not part with until it’s over your dead body? Would you like to be able to upload copies of them to photo sharing sites or social networks such as Facebook and Twitter? Making them digital will give you the freedom to duplicate each photo as many times as you would like while keeping the original prints and film safely archived.

Easier to Sort


Digital photo software programs make it really easy to re-order photographs based on many criteria. In addition to being able to sort chronologically (by the date they were shot), or by event, the newest software lets you “tag” people in the photos so you can then isolate all the photos that particular person is in.

Adding keywords works in a similar way allowing you to attach photos with significant words. For example tagging all shots taken at your birthday parties with ‘birthday party’ makes it really easy to create a new album called “All My Birthdays!”


Re-Organized Original


It’s safe to say your original prints and negatives have probably been moved around a lot through the years. They’ve probably been relocated from under one bed to many others – maybe in a few closet floors – maybe a lot. Hopefully they have never been in the garage!
All this shuffling around may have caused some of their corners to be bent and curled. Others might now be exposed to sunlight coming from a nearby window causing premature deterioration. Maybe the containers they are stored in are falling apart. Scanning your photos will give you a chance to re-organize and store them under better conditions.

Strengthen Relationships with Family and Friends


Don’t be surprised if you end up calling up family and friends, as excited as you can possibly be, screaming, “You will never believe what picture I just found!  Do you remember when you [fill in the blank here with something really really embarrassing]” And before you know it, you and this old schoolmate you friended on Facebook but never bothered chatting with are now talking like you were never separated by time.

Though don’t be surprised when once the laughter dies down, she asks you to burn that photo. “Burn it right now. I’m totally not kidding with you.”

Ability to Create Photo Books


I pretty much never thought I would see the day when we could have our own hardback photo books printed without a negotiation with the words “quantity” and “over 1000.” Until you hold one of these beautiful photo books in your hands, flipping through the pages in awe of the quality, you will have no idea how amazing they really are.


Reuniting Split-Up Collections


It’s very common to hear about families “gifting” all the photos taken of a particular family member to that family member when they start a family of their own. It’s a beautiful and generous thing for parents to do, but unfortunately the consequence of which is detrimental to ever having a complete collection in one place again. And worse, as these members pass, their personal collections are often given to members of their family you may not have any close connections with – basically disappearing from your grasp.

By making the effort now to scan in all of these sub-sets of photos, spread out between multiple households, you are increasing the chance of being able to tell that complete visual story.

Tuesday, 30 December 2014

How to take a picture of an old Photo




No Scanner? How to take a picture of an old Photo.

  1. Set up your photograph in a place with lots of daylight/ambient light removing any dust and debris from the photo.
  2. Avoid direct overhead lighting or other light sources that create a glare on the photo.
  3. Turn off the camera’s flash. 
  4. Set up your camera in a position so that the camera is parallel with the photograph so that the camera is facing directly at the photo.
  5. When you look through the camera's viewfinder the entire photo is contained and leave a little of extra space around the edge of the photo to avoid accidentally missing part of subject matter. 
  6. Set the camera’s settings to the highest possible resolution to ensure the highest quality photo. If your photo is small and the camera is positioned close to it, set the camera to macro mode, if available.
  7. Take the picture. (Take a photo with the timer so it eliminates motion blur when pressing the button)
  8. To ensure the best results, take several pictures of the photo and then select the best one later. 

www.restorapic.com

Thursday, 22 May 2014

Old Photo Restoration

  • Restore & Colorize Old Photos

   FREE QUOTE & NO OBLIGATION TO BUY


Photo Restoration

 SPECIALIST PHOTO RESTORATION

  • Photo Restoration and Repair of damaged photographs
  • Remove blemishes and Repair cracked photos
  • Contrast, brightness & colour tone balanced
  • Restore ​Old Faded Photos
  • Reconstructive work on missing segments of images
  • Colourization (bringing color to black and white photos)
  • Content Aware Patching
Photo Restoration

Wednesday, 30 April 2014

Irish Census Treasure Trove (pre 1901)

For those of you with ancestry in Ireland, you may find this useful and interesting

600,000 names from the pre-1901 Irish Census records have now been uploaded to the internet, providing a free treasure trove of information for those eager to hunt for their ancestry. 

www.genealogy.nationalarchives.ie



The records are also available for free on www.findmypast.ie